Ras Dejen and the Simien Mountains...Part two

Day 35, November 10

We started early in the morning today for what we thought would be a 7-hour trek. The path first descended from Geech plateau to the river that runs between the two highlands. After that it was a steep and lengthy climb up the other plateau. When we came to the 3900-4000 meter range I found myself feeling the altitude quite a bit.

The plateau pinnacled at a small summit known as Inatye. At 4070 meters it's my first 4000 meter summit for me in these mountains. The plateau simply dropped off into a kilometer-deep cliff gorge from the summit and we had great views of the lowlands as well as Imet Gogo. We had lunch there and the clouds rolled in to blanket the summit.

As we began our down-climb to Chennek camp we passed a few shepherds with their flocks. The opposite side of the plateau was a very steep descent that our path traversed. We passed through a large troupe of Gelada baboons that were clearly irritated by our prescence (they lift their eyebrows and bare their teeth when annoyed).

On occaision we would come to breaks in the plateau cliff-ridge where we took in striking views of the clifs and peaks enshrouded in cloud. At one break we spotted a herd of nine young Walia Ibex. They were at quite a distance scampering down the sheer cliffsides.

At the bottom of the plateau wall was the roadleading to camp. My guide says I'm the strongest person he's ever hiked with. We pushed a 7-hour trek in 4 1/2.

Tomorrow we climb higher than I ever have before. The camp is completely fogged in right now and it's quite cold.

Day 36, November 11

No two ways about it, today was a long slog. We started off by heading to the cliffsides near Chennek camp in search of Ibex. We were rewarded with a few of the animals perched on the cliffs near a group of baboons (with whom they share a symbiotic relationship).

At one point a huge old Walia Ibex with grey and white coat, a billy-goat beard, and 2-foot-long arching horns passed no more than 20 feet away from us.

From the cliffs it was a steep climb through rocky terrain up to Bwahit Pas. At 4200 meters it's the highest I've ever been and although I was certainly feling the altitude it was not nearly as bad as I remember Morocco's Jbel Toubkal being.

From the pass we descended steeply over 1000 meters vertical. A few hours passed before we came to the village of Chiro Leba where I had a pepsi and some injera with chili. After the village we continued down to a river-bed before another steep climb to the camp. The last climb really took it out of me.

All told we travelled 17 kilometers today. Tomorrow it's a steep climb to the summit of Ras Dejen, Ethiopia's highest point, and Africa's 4th or 5th (the guidebooks can't decide).

Day 37, November 12

I'm resting in my tent right now with very tired legs and a general feeling of being put through the ringer. Such are the joys of trekking.

The day started off with us leaving camp at about 5:30, long before the sun had risen. The first part of the hike was a straight vertical slog up the valley behind Ambiko camp. We came to the small village of Mizma and my guide pointed out a funeral service underway. The locals were standing in a circle and chanting lowly, I was told they were praying. We turned at the village and went straight up the valley wall.

After that, the trail continued uphill by skirting the buttresses of several mountains before turning directly uphill. It was mid-morning when we reached the 4200 meter pass of Dashen Burr. After the pass the trail was fairly reasonable but the altitude forced me to stop for breaks every five minutes.

We finally came to the base of a large, crown-shaped rock face that was the summit of Ras Dejen. We scrambled the last few pitches and triumphantly arrived at the highest point in Ethiopia at 4543 meters (nearly 15,000 feet). There is definately something to be said for standing on top of a peak that it decidedly higher than everything else around you. The phrase "Top of the world" really does seeem to apply to your state of mind. I was completely elated to be on top, filled with the sensation of a natural high.

I added a rock to the cairn and selected a summit stone for myself. The views of the surrounding ranges were spectacular. The hike back down was a great deal easier but it took its toll on my legs. I will sleep well tonight.

Day 38, November 13

We started off at a reasonable hour this morning and hiked down through Ambiko valley to the riverbed. After that we had a steep climb of about 500 meters vertical to Chiro Leba. The 1000+ meters vertical climb of Bwait was looming heavy over my head and I decided we should take the easy way out.

We all rode mules up the zig-zagging and rocky path to Bwait Pass. It was a bumpy but fairly comfortable ride. From the pass it was just a lengthy descent to Chennek camp. Near the bottom we saw a herd of about 20 Walia Ibex intermingling with Gelada baboons at close range. So ends my trekking in the Simiens.

Day 39, November 14

Most of today was wasted waiting at Chennek camp for our ride to arrive. My guide and I walked over to the cliffs to look for Ibex (no luck). I spent a good deal of time wathcing two troupes of Gelada and studying their movements. To my disappointment they didn't have one of their noisy territorial matches and spent their time eating roots. I had some delicious spicy potatos and injera at the rangers' camp before the ride showed up in the afternoon (there had been a flat tire).

We drove back to Gonder in the darkness of evening which made dodging people, cattle, and sheep quite a challenge for the driver.