Zebra River Lodge and the Tsaris Mountains...Part One

*** Just got back to Gonder after 8 days of trekking (120 km!) in the Simien mountains. I'm exhausted but happy to say that I made it to the summit of Ras Dejen (4,543 meters). Tomorrow I'm off by hook or crook to Axum. ***

Day 15

After waiting for a while in Windhoek I was picked up by Rob and we set off for the Zebra River lodge.

We eventually came to the Naukluft mountain range. A long chain of peaks rose up on our right. Apparently, the trails are not well maintained and I was told of stories of hikers wandering off and becoming lost for days.

The lodge is quite nice and nestled into a veritable maze of canyons with pancaked rock layers rising to flat-topped plateaus. It's very peaceful here and I look forward to some hiking in preparation for the Simiens in Ethiopia.

Day 16

Last night was a great introduction to the warm and familial atmosphere at the lodge. Many of Rob and Marriana's extended family and friends were staying over and we had a delightful dinner featuring tasty Kudu as the highlight. The conversation was jovial and I was made to feel as part of the family.

After a lovely breakfast of cereal and hot-from-the-oven muffins, Neil (a retired English policeman who now lives in Cape Town) and I were driven to a gap in the fence by Rob. We started our hike along the grey sands and sculpted rock of the dry river-bed. We heard all manner of birdlife including the rosy-face lovebirds chattering in the cover of the large, green fig trees.

It was starting to heat up significantly as we followed the riverbed towards the pancaked and red limestone strata of the canyonlands. We saw a large scorpion scampering over the rocks. Neil indicated that its large tail displayed its menace and that I would be in some trouble if I was stung by it.

We followed the streambed into the canyon and spotted a large troupe of baboons on the cliff-side keeping a keen eye on us and barking amongst each other. The flaked rock of the canyonenclosed on either side of us and we noted that we were being followed by two or three male baboons who barked warnings as we climbed through the rock.

We came to a small spring overrun with beetles and bees. Neil told me that a group of Germans he was guiding had come across a spitting cobra in that area. We found the shed skin of a large snake.

We climbed out of the canyon in the heat towards the flat-topped high-grounds of the Tsaris mountains. Our baboon escorts had left at that point. After a good steep climb, we made the high-grounds where the breeze and the level trail provided some relief from the searing heat. We rounded a corner and Neil and I spotted a group of five mountain zebra. Neil pointed out that I was a 'lucky man' as they are rarely spotted by hikers. They gallopped along the steep and rocky slope with great agility. They were a beautiful sight.

We continued along, traversingcanyons and once again descending to dry riverbed with its fig trees filled with noisy and startled parrots. We joined another trail and silently slogged our way back to the lodge for a lovely lunch. It was a five hour hike in the blazing sun. If I do smaller hikes once a day while I'm here i should be fit as a fiddle for the Simiens. Right now I think I'll go for a swim; African bees and wasps be damned!

Day 17

Lazy day today. Napped and swam in the pool. Quite the hike planned for tomorrow morning.

Day 18

I just finished my first self-guided hike for 4 1/2 hours on the Canyon walk. I got a late start this morning (10:00 AM) and though there was a breeze for relief, the heat of the Namibian summer was already beating down.

The trail climbed steadily as it clung to the cliff escarpment of a huge and picturesque canyon in the Tsaris. Limestone shale slipped off the trail as I clambered around another and then another abutment along the canyon wall.

It's the heat that really taxes you on these hikes. My water was already hot by the time I needed to use it. After a few hours the trail zig-zagged up a rocky canyon coulee and I made for the high-ground. Once there I was privy to the fantastic maze of canyons, dry riverbeds, and pancaked limestone that stretch as far as I could see.

I walked along the top of a cliff, past a hilly peak called 'Neil's Hump' and scrambled down a few small limestone faces to hasten my return to camp.

I've just finished off a wonderful lunch (everything is luxury to me at this place). Now I'm going for a swim (I was radiating heat when I got back) and a short nap afterwards.