Reflections on Ethiopia...

This is not an African journal entry. I stopped making those when I got back to Addis. There really wasn't much to report, I was just hotel surfing and waiting for the Mount Kenya trek. At the time I was just tired of travelling and didn't do much reflection. I felt I had to rest for what was going to be an exhausting climb in Kenya.

Now, since I re-started these entries and, in a sense, relived my whole trip through them I was able to reflect on how much I learned and gained from Ethiopia. So, I was up at 5:30 this morning, I've had breakfast, showered, etc., and I'm waiting for a phone call from a prospective employer hopefully granting me an interview (I'll call him at nine if he hasn't reached me by then). Perfect time to sit down and jot some thoughts on the country and my experiences there.

• Although I had originally planned to travel the country in a tour, going it alone has its advantages and disadvantages. At no point was I sheltered from the culture I had come to see. This was great. I travelled with locals, their chickens and cats as well; when I wanted to see a site I literally found someone lingering around the hotel, he'd find someone else and we'd negotiate a price just as the locals do; walking around cities and towns where I was the only white would bring out locals (in one case) who were more than happy to help me out with my problems, or just wanted to follow me around and ask questions. Concerning the latter, this eventaully became annoying: there are times, especially as a photographer, when you don't want to be approached and hassled. You want to slip into the background and effectively disappear to get your photos. Almost everywhere in Ethiopia this just was not possible. This was quite bad since it led to me taking rest days to avoid the scammers on the street and staying cooped up in a hotel instead of hitting the streets with my camera. Still, the positives of independent travel in my case outweigh the negatives.
• The sites of interest themselves were living, breathing entities (except the castles of Gonder). The monasteries of Lake Tana were just that - they housed cloisters of Monks who tended to the site. The Stone churches of Lalibella were active and provided service for the locals every sunday. When you go to these places you don't have the feeling that you're visiting a tourist site (it helps that there's hardly any other tourists), you have the feeling that you're visiting an active monastery or church of immense importance to the spirit of Ethiopia. It leaves you humbled and fascinated.
• Ethiopia remains the secret gem of East Africa. With the Simien mountains, and sites like Lalibella you'd think the place would be crawling with tourists. It really isn't and in a way I'm glad. Of course it would be better for Ethiopians if more tourists came (I was asked by many of the local guides I hired to encourage more tourists to come), but it's fantastic to explore the country totally solo. You get the feeling that you're bearing witness to wonders that few in the Western world (their heads filled with images of starving children when they think of Ethiopia) will ever be priviledged enough to see.
• Ethiopia is making steps towards democracy but is still ruled with an iron, or aluminum fist. There's no military or police roaming the streets. But there's been problems with election fraud. I learned from people I talked with (mainly about the impending war with Somalia's Union of Islamic Courts) that people who talked badly about government policy ended up in prison. It's not nearly as bad as the Mengistu regime with its massacres, but today's Ethiopia has a long way to go in doling out democratic freedoms to it populace.

Looking back, I feel very honored and blessed to have been able to see this country in the manner in which I did. Independent travelling made for some truly local cultural experiences and enabled me to do things I wouldn't have had the option with a tour (such as the climb of Ras Dejen). Would I go back? Probably not, but that's just mainly because there are so many other places I want to go in this world.

Journey back to Addis...

Day 48, November 23

I was up at a ridiculously early hour to participate in the disorganized mania of loading my bags and catching the bus to addis.

I tipped a boy to save me the seat up front right across from the driver. Our trip started off in the arid, scrub-covered mountains of the Lalibella area before progressing to flat, cultivated, relatively-treeless plains.

We made pretty slow progress; especially on hills with the driver grinding gears in a way that reminded me of my struggles with Beulah. We passed through town after town all clustered around the highway with their shacks constructed from all manner of bric-a-brac. The seeming impermanence of the towns' construction gives the impression that they just sprung from the ground.

We finally came to very mountainous terrain with verdant green peaks rising up all around us as the bus clung to the cliffside road.

After a very long day we came to the lively but unremarkable town of Dessie - our halfway point. I found a cheap room moments after leaving the bus station and later had some tibs (lamb with injera) at a local restaurant where I was clearly not welcome. I took an early night.

Day 49, November 24

I was up at 4:15 this morning to wander over to the bus station and wait for my seat in the cold. We finally got moving at about 6:20. We travelled through more of the same mountainous terrain and a few tunnels.

I don't know why I was so eager to to get the front seat, itkilled my knees and the bumpy ride bruised my tailbone the entire way. I spoke with an Australian couple (the only other faranjis besides me) who had been travelling for a month and were en route to the Omo region of the south. I wish I had enough money and time to head in that direction.

We finally came to the crowded outskirts of Addis after a long day's drive. I started to notice my skin colour again after a long time without caring. The bus station was hectic but I found a cab to the National Hotel. It feels like I've been travelling for ages and its only been three weeks.

I'm going to have to while away the time here in Addis before the Mount Kenya trek that I am greatly looking forward to. Although, the prospect of Nairobi does frighten me.

The Eighth Wonder of the World and its hidden gems...Part Two

Day 44, November 19

Today was unremarkable except that I was invited to Abeje's for lunch. He lives in a small house with his girlfriend on a dirt road near the hotel.

We were served very spicy doro wat with pepsis. Ethiopian spice is really nothing to downplay. You can feel the burn going down your throat. Afterwards I had a couple of cups of fresh coffee which was very nice.

It was quite nice to have a meal outside of the hotel; Abeje and his girlfriend were nothing if not hospitable. It was quite heartening for him to welcome me into his house in the way he did.

Day 45, November 20

Today we set off very early in a 4x4 to visit some of the churches outside Lalibella. The road was very bumpy as it descended from the mountain and travelled through the arid, scrub-covered mountains of the region.

After about an hour we reached the village of Bilballa. We turned off the main road and followed a smaller, steeper track back into the mountains. We stopped in a vilage and hiked up a long flight of wooden stairs until we came to a huge, semi-circular cave with water dripping off the top.

A priest eventually showed up and let us into the compound beneath and inside the cave. There a beautiful brown & white, marble and wood church was situated. It had many windows with cruciform patterns and had horizontal band patterning to it.

We were led to a communal graveyard at the back of the cave where countless skeletons were piled. With the bats it was relatively creepy. Abeje said I could take a picture; the thought of taking a picture didn't cross my mind. Let the dead rest.

The church was that of Yebranos Christos and was built in the 12th Century, before Lalibella. We were let inside to see the patterned arches and rooftop. The church was built on olive wood flooring and effectively sat above a basement of water. It was quite the sight.

On the way back to the main road, we stopped at a relatively unremarkable-looking, semi-monolithic church. It was the baptismal site of King Lalibella and was built in the 6th Century by King Caleb of the Axumite Empire.

It amazes me that these structures have withstood the test of time and are still standing. Inside we were shown the oldest relic yet: a goatskin book written in Ge'ez from the 6th Century.

It was quite an eye-opening day that just highlighted how ensconced in history Lalibella is. These structures serve as a true testament to the power of faith.

Day 46, November 21

Today was a pretty unremarkable rest day. It was pouring rain in the town - it made me a bit homsesick for Vancouver.

I took a walk uptown and managed to get hassled for money only about a half dozen times.

Day 47, November 22

Today Abeje and I hitched a ride with the hotel taxi to see the cave Church of Nakuta La'ab about 7 km from town.

The church was absolutely stunning. Perched underneath a natural cave with a stream dropping in front from above. The church was built in the 13th Century and then rebuilt in the 19th after a natural disaster. The interior was filled with tiny natural pools being filled with holy water from the cave. We were shown many Church treasures by the priest including crowns, processional crosses, and a basket decorated with silver and gold.

I had a lovely vegetarian lunch at Abeje's with tea. Tonight we a re heading uptown to arrange a bus ticket for me to Addis.

I will definately miss the plentiful wonders of this town.

The Eighth Wonder of the World and its hidden gems...Part One

Day 40, November 15

Today has been a rest-and-recovery day from trekking. I must admit I'm getting quite fed up with all the scammers in the streets [of Gonder]. I've arranged an early morning bus ride to Shire at which point I either bed down or catch a minibus to Axum.

Day 41, November 16

I missed my bus ride to Axum so I've spent another day cooped up in Gonder. I got a little Christmas shopping done though.

I've decided to cut Axum out of my itinerary and am instead flying to Lalibella in the morning.

Day 42, November 17

Today was taken up by a flight from Gonder to Lalibella. It was a very short flight over the Simien highlands in this ravine-ravaged land. I met an American couple from Boulder, Colorado and we talked about everything from Ethiopia to American politics (they were distinctly anti-Bush).

I'm treating myself to a very nice, up-market hotel in the town. Lalibella is perched on a mountainside and is very scenic with its two-storey, cylindrical peasant huts with thatched roofs standing alongside more modern structres built from cinderblock and mortar.

Day 43, November 18

Today I learned who Lalibella is considered the Eighth Wonder of the World.

We started off early with me meeting my local guide, Abeje, at the hotel entrance. We walked up the bumpy cobble-stone streets until we came to the entrance where I paid a hefty entrance fee to a random man who ran off to get me my receipt (I did get it of course, I just love the laissez faire attitude of African commerce - Everything happens on African time).

The churches are amazing feats of construction, there's just no other way of putting it. The first one, Bet Maryam (House of Mary), was huge: over 30 meters long, over 20 meters wide and 10 meters high. The designs are very intricate and laced with numerical meaning. There might be 12 windows representing the twelve apostles; 3 pillars at each corner representing the holy trinity, 7 crosses on a processional cross respresenting the 7 miracles, and so forth. All the churches are subterraenian.

Most of the churches are monolithic = cut from a single stone with 12th Century tools (i.e. hammer and chisel alone). Apparently it took 40,000 workers and 23 years to build the compounds.

The inside of the churches are dark and atmospheric and pungent with the smell of dry straw which is laid beneath their rugs and carpets. There are many different cruciform designs cut into the rock. There was usually a painting or two depicting Saintly feats and Biblical stories.

The churches are linked by narrow passageways and, in one case, a long, pitch-black, underground tunnel. This gives the impression of an entire underground city. Active services for the residents of Lalibella take place within these churches every sunday. This is an ancient, holy city that still lives and breathes.

Each church had a priest who was happy to display the ornate processional crosses with each point and knob indicating apostles, doves, archangels, miracles, etc. It's very beautful and ridiculously intricate metalworking. I hope my pictures turn out (it was very dark inside the churches).

At lunch-time we went to the Saturday market. A roiling mass of people selling their ware; this was the true sub-Saharan market that I had been wanting to explore. There was tef, honey (which I got to taste), sorghum, salt, and textiles. It was cramped but such is its nature and I was excited and snapping away with my camera.

Exploring the church compound took all day and it was very exhiliarating. Moreso than the monasteries of Bahir Dar, or the castles of Gonder, The churches of Lalibella have truly struck me with awe. That their wonder is not known wider than Ethiopia boggles my mind. Everywhere you walk you're humbled by their prescence and deeply struck by being so close to something Holy. Today has definately been a highlight of the trip.

Ras Dejen and the Simien Mountains...Part two

Day 35, November 10

We started early in the morning today for what we thought would be a 7-hour trek. The path first descended from Geech plateau to the river that runs between the two highlands. After that it was a steep and lengthy climb up the other plateau. When we came to the 3900-4000 meter range I found myself feeling the altitude quite a bit.

The plateau pinnacled at a small summit known as Inatye. At 4070 meters it's my first 4000 meter summit for me in these mountains. The plateau simply dropped off into a kilometer-deep cliff gorge from the summit and we had great views of the lowlands as well as Imet Gogo. We had lunch there and the clouds rolled in to blanket the summit.

As we began our down-climb to Chennek camp we passed a few shepherds with their flocks. The opposite side of the plateau was a very steep descent that our path traversed. We passed through a large troupe of Gelada baboons that were clearly irritated by our prescence (they lift their eyebrows and bare their teeth when annoyed).

On occaision we would come to breaks in the plateau cliff-ridge where we took in striking views of the clifs and peaks enshrouded in cloud. At one break we spotted a herd of nine young Walia Ibex. They were at quite a distance scampering down the sheer cliffsides.

At the bottom of the plateau wall was the roadleading to camp. My guide says I'm the strongest person he's ever hiked with. We pushed a 7-hour trek in 4 1/2.

Tomorrow we climb higher than I ever have before. The camp is completely fogged in right now and it's quite cold.

Day 36, November 11

No two ways about it, today was a long slog. We started off by heading to the cliffsides near Chennek camp in search of Ibex. We were rewarded with a few of the animals perched on the cliffs near a group of baboons (with whom they share a symbiotic relationship).

At one point a huge old Walia Ibex with grey and white coat, a billy-goat beard, and 2-foot-long arching horns passed no more than 20 feet away from us.

From the cliffs it was a steep climb through rocky terrain up to Bwahit Pas. At 4200 meters it's the highest I've ever been and although I was certainly feling the altitude it was not nearly as bad as I remember Morocco's Jbel Toubkal being.

From the pass we descended steeply over 1000 meters vertical. A few hours passed before we came to the village of Chiro Leba where I had a pepsi and some injera with chili. After the village we continued down to a river-bed before another steep climb to the camp. The last climb really took it out of me.

All told we travelled 17 kilometers today. Tomorrow it's a steep climb to the summit of Ras Dejen, Ethiopia's highest point, and Africa's 4th or 5th (the guidebooks can't decide).

Day 37, November 12

I'm resting in my tent right now with very tired legs and a general feeling of being put through the ringer. Such are the joys of trekking.

The day started off with us leaving camp at about 5:30, long before the sun had risen. The first part of the hike was a straight vertical slog up the valley behind Ambiko camp. We came to the small village of Mizma and my guide pointed out a funeral service underway. The locals were standing in a circle and chanting lowly, I was told they were praying. We turned at the village and went straight up the valley wall.

After that, the trail continued uphill by skirting the buttresses of several mountains before turning directly uphill. It was mid-morning when we reached the 4200 meter pass of Dashen Burr. After the pass the trail was fairly reasonable but the altitude forced me to stop for breaks every five minutes.

We finally came to the base of a large, crown-shaped rock face that was the summit of Ras Dejen. We scrambled the last few pitches and triumphantly arrived at the highest point in Ethiopia at 4543 meters (nearly 15,000 feet). There is definately something to be said for standing on top of a peak that it decidedly higher than everything else around you. The phrase "Top of the world" really does seeem to apply to your state of mind. I was completely elated to be on top, filled with the sensation of a natural high.

I added a rock to the cairn and selected a summit stone for myself. The views of the surrounding ranges were spectacular. The hike back down was a great deal easier but it took its toll on my legs. I will sleep well tonight.

Day 38, November 13

We started off at a reasonable hour this morning and hiked down through Ambiko valley to the riverbed. After that we had a steep climb of about 500 meters vertical to Chiro Leba. The 1000+ meters vertical climb of Bwait was looming heavy over my head and I decided we should take the easy way out.

We all rode mules up the zig-zagging and rocky path to Bwait Pass. It was a bumpy but fairly comfortable ride. From the pass it was just a lengthy descent to Chennek camp. Near the bottom we saw a herd of about 20 Walia Ibex intermingling with Gelada baboons at close range. So ends my trekking in the Simiens.

Day 39, November 14

Most of today was wasted waiting at Chennek camp for our ride to arrive. My guide and I walked over to the cliffs to look for Ibex (no luck). I spent a good deal of time wathcing two troupes of Gelada and studying their movements. To my disappointment they didn't have one of their noisy territorial matches and spent their time eating roots. I had some delicious spicy potatos and injera at the rangers' camp before the ride showed up in the afternoon (there had been a flat tire).

We drove back to Gonder in the darkness of evening which made dodging people, cattle, and sheep quite a challenge for the driver.

Ras Dejen and the Simien Mountains...Part one

Day 32, November 7

Today began my 8-day trek into the Simien Mountains of the Ethiopian highlands. It started with a comfortable ride in a range rover from Gonder to the highland town of Debark. There I met my guide and we took on an armed park scout.

We drove for a while towards the first camp before the guide, myself and the scout got out an hiked. The mountains are very striking and unique in that they seem to begin where the land simply drops off for a kilometer or so down the side of the highlands. The highlands form a series of sloped plateaus that the hiking trail follows. Off the edge are tremendous cliffs and steep ridges that fall down towards the cultivated land of the lowlands.

We literally walked through the middle of a couple of Gelada baboon troupes. They have little fear of humans; though they are wary of our scout's gun.

Today's hike was relatively easy for about 2 1/2 hours or 7 kilometers. We were above 3000 meters and I found myself huffing a lot. We're now at Sankaber camp (3250 meters) for the night.

Day 33, November 8

Today was a strenuous uphill trek through some stunning countryside. We started off after an extended breakfast (our cook is amazing) and actually descended from Sankaber camp into a deep valley between two plateaus. After a couple of hours or so we came to a viewpoint overlooking the cliffs, ridges, and towering peaks that edge off the highlands. Central to the view was a 600-meter waterfall effectively linking the highland valley with the cultivated lowlands.

The next portion was straight uphill on the steep valley wall heading for the road. I was huffing like mad but I kept up a decent pace. We continued to climb on the road meeting a few shepherds and Gelada baboons along the way.

We lunched down in the valley at the river that lead to the waterfall. The final section was a steep climb up the opposite valley wall through barley and flax fields. After some time we came to a collection of large conical peasant huts that marked the village of Geech. Entirely Muslim, the village supports about 700 people.

We had made good time so we stopped at a family's hut for some coffee. The coffee preparation was from scratch and quite involved. First the woman washed the beans in water before cooking them over the fire on a flat pan. She then used a large mortar and pestle to crush them into a powder. She then added the powder to boiling water and served up. Even though I really don't like coffee I had two cups and found it strong and delicious. It was served with injera and some ridiculously spicy chili.

After the village of Geech we climbed past the tree-line into rocky, high alpine moorland. We reached Geech camp in record time at 3600 meters altitude. We had trekked about 12 kilomters in 4 1/2 hours. Other trekkers have made it to the camp now; the sound of Amharic is in the clean, cool air. There's a peace and tranquility in these hills that is sorely lacking from the mania of the cities. It is very refreshing. Mules are milling about (we've gone away from the road) and I find myself looking forward to dinner (last night's was superb).

Tomorrow, I have a feeling, will be quite a long, steep climb. My lungs have taken a beating but my guide says I keep a fast, strong pace. I look forward to the upcoming peaks.

Day 34, November 9

Today we started off at a reasonable hour and headed for our first summit. It was a steadily uphill journey for 5 kilometers through alpine moorland dotted with giant ilobelia plants.

As we neared the summit of Imet Gogo there were spectacular views of a kilometer deep gorge to the south where the plateau dropped off and equally stunning views of the towering peaks sprouting from steep ridgelines to our north. The plateau we were on tapered off into a small, rocky pinnacle that was the summit. There was a minor scramble to reach the top of the summit at 3926 meters. In spite of the altitude I wasn't huffing that badly.

We trekked to two more viewpoints along the plateau edge on the journey back to camp. They both afforded great views of both the lowlands and the peaks in between.

The cloud cover has rolled in right now and it's quite cold at camp. I'm drinking tea and, as always in these mountains, looking forward to dinner.

The Castles of Gonder...

*** Sorry for the long hiatus, I've been ill and seeking work in Vancouver. I'll pick this up again and keep going until I have all the entries. I'll also upload a whack of photos to the blog after the written entries are down. Yes there's desert, but eat your vegetables first. ***

Day 30, November 5

Today was composed primarily of a mini-bus trip from Bahir Dar to Gonder. After switching buses (really just cramped toyota 70s mini-vans) in Bahir we began our stop-and-go trip through the flat-farmland with the occaisional tree.

The mini-bus seemed to stop for every Ethiopian on the road and the trip was slow-going. At times space was shared with small children, a chicken, and a cat.

Large and heated discussions the nature of which I can only guess, were had in every small town along the way. As is usual in this country, the road was filled with people, meandering cows and donkeys, and the occaisional oxen cart.

We eventually headed into some high hills that I guessed to be the foothills of the Simien Mountains. A few rocky towers jutted from the tree-covered hills. The slopes of the hills were covered with terraced farmland.

Now I am in Gonder. Tomorrow I plan to see the castles and sort out my Simien tour.

Day 31, November 6

This morning, as I went in search of the post and telecom building, I developed a pre-pubescent entourage that seemed intent on practicing their english and getting to know me. In any event, they proved helpful as they led me to a phone where I got a hold of my local Simien tour operator Bedassa.

I met Bedassa at the hotel and we chatted. Everything is set for my trek to begin tomorrow. He explained that Gonder was the "Camelot of Africa" because of its castles. I had spied these buildings down a road during my morning search and took it upon myself to go and explore. I stealthily ditched my entourage first.

The castle compound was very impressive. A total of six 17th Century palaces are in the area. Some have been reduced to ruin while others stand as if new. Their designs are quite unique with domed cupolas and high parapets. In a couple you can freely wander from room to room and out onto promenades. I found myself taking many pictures. Apparently, as a wayward guide told me, each castle was constructed by a separate emperor.

My entourage found me outside the castle compound. There are sometimes when you don't want to be accompanied. I'm back at the hotel now looking forward to the mountains.